Fourth of July weekend in Kampala was filled with just as many barbeques, pool parties, and fireworks as any July 4th that I have spent in the States! Saturday, one of my good friends, who is also a diplomat on his first tour with the Foreign Service, hosted a huge 4th of July party at his home, and invited over a hundred fellow diplomats and Ugandans. He hails from Tennessee, and his invitation promised target practice with a BB gun for any guests who had never shot something. I knew it would be a great party.
On Saturday, U.S. Marines barbequed hamburgers, diplomat’s children played in the pool and country music blared. It was difficult to remember that I was not in fact at home in California, but instead thousands of miles, and a few continents away, in Africa. Everyone brought side dishes, we taught Ugandans the good ol’ American game of dodgeball, and we finished off the night around a campfire watching Forrest Gump on a projector outside. On Sunday, the American Recreation Association of Kampala hosted their annual July 4th celebration, including another barbecue, performances by Ugandan acrobats and a children’s choir, and a great fireworks display. During the fireworks, I found myself next to a young girl who could not have been more excited by every spark; the word happy wouldn't do it justice. Her entire face was face-painted as a butterfly and she squealed with delight after every explosion. Sitting next to her made me excited again to see the display, and it occurred to me that no matter how many different times I have seen fireworks in my life, this was the first, and maybe only time I would watch them on the 4th of July in Uganda. I commented to the young girl’s mom how fun it was to sit next to her, and we spoke for a little while. The girl is half American and half Ugandan, and was born at the University of Michigan hospital. It really is a small world.
On Monday, July 4th the Marines hosted a small get together at their house, and I invited a group of girls I had met the night before. These 4 girls are my age and have come to Uganda through a program at Yale, and they were really excited to meet more Americans. The Marine BBQ marked my 3rd in a row, and I was just ready to sleep. I knew the next day at the Embassy would be a long one.
When my roommates and I arrived at the Embassy on Tuesday, tents and decorations were up, and people were scurrying about making last minute preparations for our largest representational event of the year. Around 4pm, I made my way to the security gates and started to escort in the invited media. After supervising them through various security measures, the press was brought down to the event area so that they could set up their equipment. I quickly made my way to the opposite entrance so that I could man my post- the Flag Pin station. The colorful pins show both the American and Ugandan national flags joined, and I had no idea they would be such a hot commodity. Everyone that entered the event passed by me and was pinned, if they so desired. I think that out of the 500+ guests that walked by me, one woman declined. (My fingers were severely indented from pinching- rough life.) This job was really exciting because I got a chance to meet every foreign dignitary and large contributor in attendance. Our guest of honor was the First Deputy Prime Minister and Minister for East African Affairs. I welcomed him with a pin on his chest, and he continued on to the reception line. Without nametags for anyone, I knew it was important to greet every single person like they were an Ambassador or Prime Minister of their country, because more often than not, they were. I introduced myself kindly and graciously, and depending on their accent I could get a slight hint of where they came from. Some guests immediately introduced themselves with their name, country, and government position, while others were more reserved with their response. I met the Ambassadors of Austria, South Korea, Germany, and Belgium, the Commanders of the Indian, French, and Italian armies, the CEOs of some of the biggest corporations in Uganda, and many religious, NGO and local leaders. I met one very kind woman, who told me she was from France, and as I pinned her with the flags we spoke together in French and she told me that she was in fact the Ambassador (or ambassadrice, to be more accurate). I tried to contain my excitement, not only because I was speaking with the ambassador, but also because she was a woman! At this point it’s accepted and respected that many of the world’s political leaders are and will be women, but up until that point many of the powerful guests I had met were men, and I was greatly enthused to see the French Ambassador before me. Every attendee wished us congratulations on our 235th anniversary, and repeatedly thanked anyone they encountered for having been invited to such a special event. I was very proud to be one of the first people these honored guests encountered upon their arrival at the Embassy, and I hope each one felt well received. There were a few tricky moments- like when I signaled someone forward to be pinned, only for him to be cut by a VIP, who I had been instructed to serve first. Or another, when I tried to put a pin on a major financial contributor to the event (a boutonniere on the chest signaled this status) but dropped the pin in his chest pocket and had my hand fully inside, fumbling around until I quickly realized it was probably just better to grab a new one. Moments like these definitely got awkward, but overall it was a really amazing experience.
Inside the event, I ate food from the trays of moving appetizers, and watched as government officials enjoyed their dinner from our hotdog stands, popcorn machines, and soft-serve ice cream stations. The Marines presented the colors, and the Chargé d’Affaires (filling in for the Ambassador) gave remarks and cut our 235th Anniversary cake. After the speeches, I met the defense attaché to the French Embassy, a Lieutenant-Colonel. I spent some time speaking in French with him and his wife, who invited me over to their house for dinner and to meet their three daughters that just arrived from France, one of whom is 20! Maybe if I’m lucky, I’ll get an invitation to the July 14th Independence Day celebration at the French Embassy!
Tomorrow, the South Sudan becomes the newest country in the world!!
Monday, July 11, 2011
Friday, July 1, 2011
Ethiopian Village Restaurant
I have taken about a week long break, though not entirely on purpose, from writing in my blog. Although it's true that I have become much busier at work, and formed a group of friends here in Uganda that are always ready for an adventure, I think my blog-writing hiatus resulted from more than just lack of free time. This past week the country has really felt like home. When I get picked up in the morning, I know the route we will take, where traffic will be the worst, which traffic officer will be on duty at the corner, when to brace myself for the worst of the pot holes. When the car stops abruptly to allow gigantic cows to cross the road I no longer stare wide eyed and shocked. (If there is one thing Ugandan drivers respect, it's 500 lbs cows crossing the road…they know who would win that battle.) Losing electricity no longer makes me blink, and I've learned to continue on speaking or going about business as if nothing ever happened. The chef at the Embassy knows my name and my dietary restrictions, and my friends surprised me with gluten free pasta and gluten free crackers at a dinner party we just had. One of my friends even promised to make me dairy-free homemade ice cream using coconut milk. I'm used to Ugandan greetings as soon as you enter their home or car, when they joyfully yell "You're Welcome!!" At the beginning of my stay, I thought I had forgotten to say "thank you" as soon as I arrived, but they offer this greeting just like we would say, "hey, come on in!" So essentially, the comfort and familiarity of everyday activities makes it difficult to distinguish those events that are unique to Uganda and deserve elaboration. Because for now, this feels like life.
A couple of nights ago, a pipe burst in our kitchen and water poured out of the water heater for 40 minutes. At first, my roommates and I scrambled around calling anyone who would be able to help at 10pm on a Sunday night. When we finally realized there was nothing we could do, my roommate Nathan made a slip n' slide down the hallway and a water fight broke out in our home. By the time water got above our ankles, Nathan had already doused us in buckets of water, and it was impossible to get upset at he yelled, "This is AFRICAAAA!" Before 11pm, a plumber finally came to turn off the water, and he said in his Ugandan accent, " Ok. Everybody (meaning us) get buckets, and bowls, this is how we will get the water out of here." My roommates and I looked at each other and couldn’t believe he was serious, water had spread throughout the majority of our first floor. As we reluctantly started to scoop water, the plumber laughed and said, "Ahhh no! If you don’t want to do this yourself we can send people tomorrow, I just didn’t want to leave you in a flood!" I was more than happy to be left in a flood if it meant going to sleep, and having a crew of experienced water-scoopers come the following day.
Last night I went to dinner at the Ethiopian Village Restaurant. It is a large, open air restaurant, with generous portions, loud music, and a metal detector at the entrance just like all other public venues in Kampala. But there is something different about this place, and you can feel it when you pass through the bag search and security pat-down. On July 11, 2010, almost one year ago, Somali terrorists from the group Al-Shabaab detonated a bomb in the Ethiopian Village Restaurant during the World Cup Finals. Across the city at the Kyadodo Rugby Grounds, two more bombs simultaneously exploded, and a third suicide bomber vest was found but did not go off. These suicide bombs killed 15 people at the Ethiopian Village Restaurant, and 78 people total throughout the city. The terrorist group, Al-Shabaab, took responsibility for these attacks because of Ugandan military involvement in the Sudan and Somalia. Nearly every Ugandan living in Kampala knew someone killed or injured in the bombings. Huge corporations had hosted World Cup parties at the Rugby Grounds that evening, and everyone had stayed out late at various bars and restaurants to watch the game in good company. As the first anniversary of the July 11 attacks approaches, many people in the Embassy remember those who they lost, and the newspapers feature stories from survivors every day. Hearing the stories from my Ugandan friends who lost a loved one, or who chose a different location to watch the game just by chance, makes me realize that every day really is a gift, and it must be lived to the very fullest. Every restaurant, bar, club and store has security at its entrance, and the feeling throughout the capital is very safe. I know that the city will continue to be on edge as the anniversary approaches, but security is tight and well dispersed.
Before the country faces the July 11 anniversary, we will first be celebrating the 235th Independence Day of the United States of America! This upcoming weekend is packed with parties and BBQs, put on by ex-pats at the Embassy, the American Recreation Association, and then our biggest representative event of the year. During my trip to Queen Elizabeth National Park a few weeks ago, I met 4 girls my age from the University of San Francisco. The four of them are living in rural villages in western Uganda, working with various NGOs. I invited them to come to Kampala and I received a call from one of the girls this week asking if this weekend would be ok. I checked with my roommates, and today the girls will make the 4 hour drive to Kampala to stay at our house for a few days! They'll be able to celebrate the 4th of July with BBQs, pool parties, fireworks, and most importantly, other Americans. The Independence Day event at the Embassy is our largest representative event of the year. I have been directly involved with many of the preparations and I was really excited to write the speech for the Deputy Chief of Mission to give at one of our 4th of July parties. What is my other official role? I am designated "Flag Pin Girl". I will be putting American and Ugandan Flag pins on the chests of over 1,000 foreign dignitaries and diplomats. At this point I'm really wishing I had more high school dates to practice putting a pin on…my mom came to my rescue with the boutonniere at every Homecoming and Prom…and that'll be nothing compared to pinning the Minister of Finance or the Ambassador of Egypt…
With two important days coming up for both Americans and Ugandans, the atmosphere in Kampala is buzzing with excitement. Tonight, I will meet young diplomats on their 1st and 2nd tours from embassies all around Kampala (U.S., Egyptian, French, German…). I'm really excited to talk with them and hear how they're finding their first few years on the job working for their country's Foreign Service. Happy July 4th Weekend from Uganda!!
A couple of nights ago, a pipe burst in our kitchen and water poured out of the water heater for 40 minutes. At first, my roommates and I scrambled around calling anyone who would be able to help at 10pm on a Sunday night. When we finally realized there was nothing we could do, my roommate Nathan made a slip n' slide down the hallway and a water fight broke out in our home. By the time water got above our ankles, Nathan had already doused us in buckets of water, and it was impossible to get upset at he yelled, "This is AFRICAAAA!" Before 11pm, a plumber finally came to turn off the water, and he said in his Ugandan accent, " Ok. Everybody (meaning us) get buckets, and bowls, this is how we will get the water out of here." My roommates and I looked at each other and couldn’t believe he was serious, water had spread throughout the majority of our first floor. As we reluctantly started to scoop water, the plumber laughed and said, "Ahhh no! If you don’t want to do this yourself we can send people tomorrow, I just didn’t want to leave you in a flood!" I was more than happy to be left in a flood if it meant going to sleep, and having a crew of experienced water-scoopers come the following day.
Last night I went to dinner at the Ethiopian Village Restaurant. It is a large, open air restaurant, with generous portions, loud music, and a metal detector at the entrance just like all other public venues in Kampala. But there is something different about this place, and you can feel it when you pass through the bag search and security pat-down. On July 11, 2010, almost one year ago, Somali terrorists from the group Al-Shabaab detonated a bomb in the Ethiopian Village Restaurant during the World Cup Finals. Across the city at the Kyadodo Rugby Grounds, two more bombs simultaneously exploded, and a third suicide bomber vest was found but did not go off. These suicide bombs killed 15 people at the Ethiopian Village Restaurant, and 78 people total throughout the city. The terrorist group, Al-Shabaab, took responsibility for these attacks because of Ugandan military involvement in the Sudan and Somalia. Nearly every Ugandan living in Kampala knew someone killed or injured in the bombings. Huge corporations had hosted World Cup parties at the Rugby Grounds that evening, and everyone had stayed out late at various bars and restaurants to watch the game in good company. As the first anniversary of the July 11 attacks approaches, many people in the Embassy remember those who they lost, and the newspapers feature stories from survivors every day. Hearing the stories from my Ugandan friends who lost a loved one, or who chose a different location to watch the game just by chance, makes me realize that every day really is a gift, and it must be lived to the very fullest. Every restaurant, bar, club and store has security at its entrance, and the feeling throughout the capital is very safe. I know that the city will continue to be on edge as the anniversary approaches, but security is tight and well dispersed.
Before the country faces the July 11 anniversary, we will first be celebrating the 235th Independence Day of the United States of America! This upcoming weekend is packed with parties and BBQs, put on by ex-pats at the Embassy, the American Recreation Association, and then our biggest representative event of the year. During my trip to Queen Elizabeth National Park a few weeks ago, I met 4 girls my age from the University of San Francisco. The four of them are living in rural villages in western Uganda, working with various NGOs. I invited them to come to Kampala and I received a call from one of the girls this week asking if this weekend would be ok. I checked with my roommates, and today the girls will make the 4 hour drive to Kampala to stay at our house for a few days! They'll be able to celebrate the 4th of July with BBQs, pool parties, fireworks, and most importantly, other Americans. The Independence Day event at the Embassy is our largest representative event of the year. I have been directly involved with many of the preparations and I was really excited to write the speech for the Deputy Chief of Mission to give at one of our 4th of July parties. What is my other official role? I am designated "Flag Pin Girl". I will be putting American and Ugandan Flag pins on the chests of over 1,000 foreign dignitaries and diplomats. At this point I'm really wishing I had more high school dates to practice putting a pin on…my mom came to my rescue with the boutonniere at every Homecoming and Prom…and that'll be nothing compared to pinning the Minister of Finance or the Ambassador of Egypt…
With two important days coming up for both Americans and Ugandans, the atmosphere in Kampala is buzzing with excitement. Tonight, I will meet young diplomats on their 1st and 2nd tours from embassies all around Kampala (U.S., Egyptian, French, German…). I'm really excited to talk with them and hear how they're finding their first few years on the job working for their country's Foreign Service. Happy July 4th Weekend from Uganda!!
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